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• Sales Rank: #6279457 in Books
• Published on: 1962
• Binding: Hardcover

Most helpful customer reviews

1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Old fashioned but readable account of a climbing tragedy
By Peter E. McGinn
I read a first edition 1962 copy of this book, so I figured I should place my review here in case the 2015 edition is different in some ways.

I have read many books on mountaineering, but I think this may be the first one I have read that was not written by someone who was at least a casual climber. Most are written by the climbers themselves. Olsen is reporting on the build-up, occurrence and follow-up of a tragedy on the north face of the Eiger, a climb that has a long and foreboding history. His book seems very well-researched to me, and I believe he is mostly fair to the participants and characters presented here. Claudio Corti, the climber who was talented and strong but who didn't think through his climbs, is not a sympathetic character at times, with his seeming cavalier attitude towards the death of climbing partners, and toward the rescuers on the Eiger, but his side of the story and personality are also shown, when it would have been easy to just make him a tragic, unintelligent clown figure all the way through.

I have seen a few negative reviews of this book stating it is boring or written with too many big words or paragraphs, but this was 1961, when people hadn't yet dumbed themselves down with endless TV and repetitious thrillers and still expected to dive into a book full of details and back story, history and explanations. Meanwhile, a positive review listed this as a "page-turner," and I don't quite see that either. It moves along at a somewhat slow pace, because the tragedy and rescue attempts were played out at a slow pace, thanks to the storms that slowed the traffic down on the mountain.

For one example of the details and back story, I enjoyed the insight provided in the story of the Swiss rescue organizations, as it explained why they feuded with each other, and weren't inclined to attempt rescues on the Eiger face, rather than just making them look shallow or uncaring. But I can see why details like that organizational history might not appeal to all readers. This book is not like the dramatic, moment-to-moment books describing mountain tragedies or victories that we see on modern bestseller lists, so adjust your expectations before you take it on.

0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Five Stars
By Bruce Nothdurft
book about a distant relative; never gets old

See all 2 customer reviews...

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